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Technical / Troubleshooting Tips

Maintenance Tips

1. Increase the efficiency of a DC motor

There are quite a few things to you can do to increase the efficiency of a DC motor. Here are a few of them:

Maintenance: Regular inspections, lubrication, and the cleanness of your motor can all have an impact. Always make sure your motor is as clean as possible and that its components don't have too much wear and tear. This includes things such as its brushes and commutators, as well as electrical connections and insulation.

Temperature management: The name of the game is keeping cool. High heats can cause damage to your motor. The keyto keeping a motor cool is to choose a motor with enough steel and copper. This can be done by using our "Choose a Motor Tool". If possible we recommend using ventilation, internal or external fans, or a heatsink. Any bit helps but the important thing is keeping it cool!

High Quality Components: Though this may feel obvious finding the right components can make a huge difference. Look for high quality copper windings, bearings, and lubricants. As well as high quality electrical steel in the lamonticns with minimal care loss. If you want to know your finding the best possible motor for your specific needs you can use our custom built "Choose a Motor Tool".

Keep the rotor and stator close together: Precision is key, keeping a small gap between the rotor and stator without letting them touch can increase efficiency.

2. Disassemble a golf cart axle

We understand sometimes you need to dive into the finer details. Disassembling a golf cart axle can be tricky, but we’re here to help. Follow the step-by-step guide below to get it done:

Tools you’ll need:

  • Wheel Chocks

  • Car Jacks

  • Jack Stands

  • Socket Set

  • Ratchet

  • Needle-Nose Pliers

  • Bearing Puller

  1. Park the golf cart on a flat surface. Place the wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Jack up the rear end of the cart, then set two jack stands underneath to support it with the rear tires off the ground.

  2. Remove the bolts holding the rim onto the hub and pull off the tire and rim.

  3. Take off the cover of the drum brake and remove the bolts securing it to the hub.

  4. Use needle-nose pliers to pull out the "C" clip, which you’ll find visible through the hole in the flange. Pull the hub away from the axle.

  5. Attach the bearing puller to the center of the axle and secure its arms around the rear bearing housing. Tighten the puller until the bearing comes free.

  6. Finally, pull the axle out of the golf cart by hand.

3. Reset Onboarding Computer (OBC) of a series motor

  1. Unplug the positive and negative connections from the battery pack

  2. Put the cart to reverse

  3. Push the accelerator pedal fully down until the reverse buzzer ceases

  4. Reconnect the power supply

4. Speed Sensor Test Procedure: Cart is starting fast but slows down quickly

Ensure that the cart is not in sleep mode. You can do this by driving the cart a short distance. Just verify that the cart is operational. With the F&R switch set to any of the three positions and the Tow/Run switch in the Run position, manually push the cart to simulate a roll-away situation. The "Roll-Away" braking system will engage to slow the cart down and prevent it from rolling away, accompanied by a series of beeps from the reverse buzzer as it decelerates. If the cart rolls freely without any resistance, this indicates a lack of communication between the cart's speed sensor and the controller. In this case, there is a speed sensor failure, and it will need to be replaced.

These carts use two different types of motors, each equipped with a distinct speed sensor.

5. Remove Regen braking on a Club Car

Simply unplug the motor speed sensor from your motor. Note, this will not work on Club Car IQ Carts!

6. How to identify your yamaha cart

Yamaha Serial Number Locations

Yamaha Golf Car models typically start with a "G", except for the latest Drive2 model. The model's second digit signifies its age, with higher numbers indicating newer models.

Models ending in "A" are gas-powered, while "E" signifies electric. If you're unsure of the type, lift the seat; batteries indicate an electric car, while a motor and belts signify gas.

A G1 model has two bucket seats, while G2-G9 models feature a bench seat, identifiable by steering column color, access doors, and sometimes dash panel colors. The G14, G16, and G19 models, introduced later, display variations in logos and power configurations, such as 36V and 48V options for electric models.

The G29 "Drive" model, launched in 2007, introduced distinct design changes, including cup holders, rear downspouts, and in later versions, EFI and AC systems. The current Drive2 model is visually similar to the G29 but is distinguishable by the white/gray "Yamaha" logo on the side panels, as well as a rear body separated into three segments.

If the emblem says Yamaha, your car is a G16. New body style, rounded fenders, Yamaha emblem in front, gas engine, your car is a G16A. New body style, rounded fenders, Yamaha emblem in front, electric powered, your car is a G16E or a G19E, both electric cars. To tell the difference between a G16E, which is a 36Volt electric, versus a G19E, which is a 48 Volt electric, look for the Forward Reverse Control. If it is a black switch on the dash, your car is a G19E 48 Volt. If the Forward Reverse is in the center of the rear body, large black lever, your car is a G16E 36 Volt electric.
(Exception: it may fit the above description for an electric car and be a G14E, (1995-6) however there is no appearance difference and no parts difference between a G14E and a G16E (1996-2002), so for ordering parts it is safe to say the car is a G16E.) If the car has the new Yamaha "tuning fork" logo on the front cowl, then your car is a G22. Tuning fork logo, gas engine, G22A. Tuning fork logo, electric powered, G22E.

7. How to test a cart controller

The Controller is the "heart" of the motor, without it, your motor will never operate. Unfortunately there are many reasons why your tests seem to be getting no where. The important thing to remember when working on one of these carts is to isolate components. This eliminates flow-through or by-pass voltage and/or current.

  • First discharge the controller: We want to get all of the energy out of that motor before we start doing anything to it. To do this simply shut down all components (key switch = Off, F&R = Neutral, Tow/Run switch = Tow).

  • Disconnect battery last negative cable at battery pack: Key switch = On, F&R = Reverse, Tow/Run switch = Tow.

  • Depress and hold the accelerator for 30 seconds: Key Switch = Off, F&R = Neutral, Tow/Run = Tow

Now disconnect F2 and F2 at controller (if equipped) and disconnect last positive cable at battery pack. You can now perform any work or testing you need to do for your controller. Afterwards reconnect all cables making sure battery last negative is last on.

8. How to troubleshoot a controller on a Regen Cart

We've all been there, and believe us when we say we get it. The Regen controller is much more complex that the series counter part. Luckily we can share some common issues and tests we have found work the best.

Often times we fine when a Regen controller fails its often the feild diodes that have failed in their place. Almost always when the feild diodes fail its due to the shorted or partically shorted motor. Below you will find a simple test to determine if the diodes are what failed:

  1. Set the digital meter to 'DIODE MODE'

  2. place red (+) probe B-bus bar and the Black (-) on the M- or A1 bus bar. Meter should be reading 0.5V +/- 0.2V

  3. Place the Red (+) probe on the M- or A1 bus bar and the Black (-) probe on the B+ bus bar. Meter should be reading 0.5V +/- 0.2V

  4. Place the Red (+) probe on the B- bus bar and the Black (-) probe on the F1. Meter should be reading 0.5V +/- 0.2V

  5. Place the Red (+) probe on the B- bus bar and the Black (-) probe on the F2. Meter should be reading 0.5V +/- 0.2V

  6. Place the Red (+) probe on the F1 and the Black (-) probe on the B+ bus bar. Meter should be reading 0.5V +/- 0.2V

  7. Place the Red (+) probe on the F2 and the Black (-) probe on the B+ bus bar. Meter should be reading 0.5V +/- 0.2V

If a controller fails any of the above tests it has an internal fault and will need to be replaced. If you are still experiencing issues with your Regen controller or didn't find this information helpful, please contact us, we would be happy to help.

9. Diagnose a golf cart with a malfunctioning controller

The issue with a non-running diagnosis lies in identifying the cause versus the effect. A cause is the action, and the effect is its result. Understanding this distinction is essential to dive deeper into the problem. Knowledge of the system and experience with it are also crucial.

The root of the issue is often the motor. A motor that is shorted, even partially, can lead to controller failure. Installing a new controller with a faulty motor is likely to cause another failure.

When faced with a defective controller, check the motor as outlined in the test below. Even if the motor passes, it’s important to remove it for a visual inspection and a smell test to detect potential issues.

Testing a Regen, Shunt-Wound Motor

When a Regen or Shunt-wound controller fails, it’s often due to a larger underlying issue, commonly a motor short. A shorted motor will damage a newly installed controller if the motor is not addressed first.

1. Discharge the controller circuit.

2. Disconnect F1 and F2 from the controller.

3. Disconnect all cables from the motor.

4. Use an ohmmeter to test the motor:

- A1 to A2: A reading other than “open” is acceptable.

- F1 to F2: A reading between 1 and 3 ohms is acceptable.

- Any continuity from any of the studs to the case indicates a problem.

Note: Some motors label F1 and F2 as S1 and S2 instead.

5. Remove the motor to inspect the windings and brushes.

Even if the motor passes all tests, it may still be defective. If it fails any test, it is likely shorted, and installing a new controller will only result in further damage.

Maintenance Tips

10. Maintaining your cart for maximum performance

Regular upgrades to your D&D Motor Systems motor can drastically improve the results of your cart.

11. Sticking or dragging brakes

Caused by dirt in brake cable housings, dust or oil on brake shoes, affecting brake release.

12. Improper wheel alignment

Wheels should have 1/4-inch toe-in; the distance from the front should be slightly shorter than the back to ensure proper alignment.

13. One or more weak batteries

Batteries need the correct water level (1/4 inch above plates) and should be checked with a load tester to ensure consistent performance across all batteries.

14. Bad, worn or loose battery cables

Corroded or worn battery cables should be cleaned or replaced, as they can disrupt battery function.

15. Dirty F&R switch

Clean or replace the F&R switch if contacts are dirty, as it can affect performance.

16. Improperly Adjusted V-glide linkage

Ensure the V-glide wiper brush reaches its full range when the accelerator is pressed and is level on contact pads.

17. Wheel bearing drag

Bearings should be clean and well-greased without overtightening to avoid wheel drag.

18. Leaking axle seals

Oil leaks onto brake shoes can cause dragging; replace seals and clean or replace shoes as needed.

19. Improper tire pressure

Underinflated tires (run at 25 psi) can reduce cart speed, so keeping proper tire pressure is essential.

20. Overheating motor

Lack of airflow can cause motor overheating, leading to insulation breakdown; adequate airflow keeps it cool.

21. Bad motor bearings

Worn bearings can cause armature drag, leading to excess noise and reduced performance.

22. Badly worn or sticking brushes

Carbon dust buildup can prevent proper contact with the armature, causing poor motor performance.

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